parts is parts

Still designing/printing parts here in plastic from Autodesk Fusion 360, Cura and the Robo C2 printer. It’s amazing how long it can take sometimes to print.  This particular part printed in just over eighteen hours but an earlier (high-quality) version suggested that it would have taken slightly over four days.

I’ve been having problems with a particular spool of filament from Shaxon. Given that it’s infused with carbon fiber, it has a tendency to want to stick to itself on the spool. So I’ve lost about three print jobs so far from a variety of nonsense related to the filament snagging itself as seen here.

IMG_0190

This then results in the loss of filament to the extruder and the print job continues, going through the motions of printing but without plastic. To fix this, I’ve repurposed the base of my rock polisher to hold the spool and locking it in place with a coat hanger for the moment. When the filament tries to snag itself, the entire rig seems to work out with respect to deploying without accidents.

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If you’d like to see what it looks like to 3D print a part like this, here’s a link to the video I created (using that new camera from an earlier post).

Time-lapse photography of printed part

 

the robo 3d c2 printer

For months now, I’ve been wanting a 3D printer to create plastic parts and I’m guessing that I just made the best choice by buying the Robo C2.

robo

First Impressions

First of all, it’s an attractive printer in the same way that EVE (from the WALL•E cartoon) was cute.  Perhaps you can see the resemblance?

eve

Second—and you guys should know by now how I love them—this printer is driven by a Raspberry Pi 3 computer inside!  I hope to clone the microSD card in that computer and go to school on their efforts to hack an even better printer out of it.

Third, the product is open-sourced and crowd-funded.

Fourth, they’re a local company.  Their office is maybe a 20-minute drive from where I live in San Diego.  Given that most people would have to purchase this online and have it shipped, they wouldn’t get to see it in action like I just did.

Fifth, it includes an iOS app which allows you to control this and any other Octoprint-enabled printer.

Sixth, at 20 microns, it looks to have the best resolution of any of the printers I saw at Frye’s Electronics and most of those had a price tag above $1400 to reach the 50 micron resolution level.

Finally, it looks like it comes with a one-year license for Autodesk Fusion 360 which appears to be a very nice program for designing.

Research and Past Experience

I spent a fair amount of time before purchasing this by researching 3D printing, the types of plastics, the pitfalls to overcome, etc.

This particular printer doesn’t have a heated bed (the place where the project is made) so it may not do a great job with ABS plastic without a lot of trickery.  The standard voodoo that is necessary is to get inventive with the bed covering so that the project adheres nicely, doesn’t skip around and further, doesn’t warp due to uneven heating.

So for an unheated bed, the PLA type of plastic is the suggestion here and I’ve purchased an additional two rolls of the stuff to get things started.

Interestingly-enough, a few years ago I worked in a large plastic manufacturing plant so I have a little experience making plastic of the rotomolded variety.

caveman

In this industrial-sized version, colorized plastic powder is measured and put into aluminum molds on a steel frame wheel.  And this wheel then is inserted into a very large 700°F oven.

But for the consumer variety, you spend most of your time in a computer-aided design program, send a job to the printer and then wait hours (usually) to see how it turned out.  This ought to be interesting.

Projects

I have a few projects in mind for this.  I snagged a Robo Drone Kit while I was at Frye’s to give me a project which should produce some reasonable results.

dronekit

I hope to design and print an enclosure for the e=mc2 project from earlier.  Although it’s difficult, I hope to make this a clear enclosure ultimately.

I’d like to work up a design for a heated bed for the Robo C2 since it sounds like this would make ABS-related print jobs more successful.  I think I’d also like to test new bed materials since the field of 3D printing is still new and inventiveness is required here.

Given that the Robo C2 has a Raspberry Pi computer inside with OctoPi software running on it, I should be able to modify the design, add things onto the printer and do notifications, for example.  I could add an internal webcam to it, for example.

And then finally, I think I’ll spend some time on post-print finishing techniques to see what I can do in this area.

Results

Here’s the first printout from the Robo C2 after some upgrades and dialing in that critical z-adjustment.  Obviously, it’s a money clip.  It’s light blue but the red background makes it look gray otherwise.  It’s very smooth for a 3D-printed project and amazingly so for the $699 price tag on the printer.  The small, flat piece is called a “raft” and is meant to make things stable during printing, btw.