dual-spool coolness, etc

Anticipating a dual-extruder upgrade soon for the Robo C2 printer—imagine printing in two colors for the same part—I’ve designed and printed a dual-spool holder for those two filaments. It’s an upgrade for the printer and works much better than the original holder.


The original spool holder stuck out of that rectangular hole in the back of the printer, sometimes falling out during the middle of a print job. Aesthetically-pleasing but impractical, I’ve now replaced the original.


I’ve created step-by-step instructions for creating two versions: one for the full kilogram rolls and one for the half-kilogram variety.



Another design challenge with the Robo C2 printer is the way that the print bed is cantilevered from the back of the printer. It’s a bit like a diving board and similarly wobbles at its front-most extremity as you’d expect. This isn’t really optimal for 3D printing because it results in poor quality with taller parts and especially those which are oriented toward the front of the printer.



I’ve therefore designed a cantilevered stability plate to afix to the bottom of the print bed itself which should provide some firmness in this dimension. Eight M3 type aluminum bolts are the only thing needed other than this part.



da plane

Obviously, I watched too much television growing up. Every week on Fantasy Island, Hervé Villachaize’s character would point to the sky and make this exclamation.


In a 3D printer, it’s really important to start printing on a known, flat plane. And yet, many print beds aren’t made of something rigid like glass so bigger parts end up shaped like the print bed itself. Even small deviations can mess up a print. It’s a problem to be solved, actually.


The software that’s running on my Robo C2 printer is a fork of the popular OctoPrint open-source software. What’s cool about this software is that it will allow you to write plugins to adjust the way it works.


The language the printer listens to during the print job is called GCODE. Think of it as a list of common instructions that almost all 3D printers use now.


One of the GCODE commands in question is G29 and this tells the printer to run through an autoleveling routine. In some cases, the printer’s extruder will actually touch the print bed in several locations. In others, the extruder assembly will use a light plus a photoresistor to hover above the bed and to gauge its height above it. Using either method, the printer can make a reasonable “map” of the print bed and mathematically create a virtual plane to represent it. If the print bed is a little lower on one side, this routine should allow the printer to compensate for that.

Only…, it doesn’t really work that great, to be honest. Someone deserves a round of applause for trying to fix the problem but honestly, a manual approach is possibly the better way to go here.

Although these printers have a built-in autoleveling feature, manually leveling the print bed is preferred by those who are more advanced at 3D printing.

The Problem

I’m currently now working to manually adjust my print bed so that it is perfectly level and an exact height from the extruder. In fact, I have two replaceable print beds for the same printer so both of them need to be perfectly level and exactly the same height all around. To complicate matters, I anticipate designing and creating a third print bed for this which is heated. And that one should also be perfectly level and the same height as the others. The final goal will be to easily and quickly swap print beds without the task of fussing with any settings.

So now, having created a number of GCODE files over the last four months, I really don’t feel like editing them to remove that unnecessary G29 command. Once you’ve manually leveled everything, an autolevel routine is not only overkill but it can cause problems to the print quality. I needed a way of programmatically switching off the command when seen.

The Solution

I’ve created an OctoPrint plugin which helps to solve this problem. Assuming that I no longer need autoleveling at the start of each job, the plugin tells the printer basically to ignore any G29 commands. I now don’t have to edit countless GCODE files or worry if someone sends me a file—the printer will dutifully ignore this command.

Github:  Toggle Autolevel plugin


the matrix linode’d

Today’s review is about a pretty decent hosting company called Linode. Here’s the three-day timeline from idea to implementation:

  1. Thursday: decided to create a new info website about 3D printing, bought the domain name on GoDaddy and waited for the changes to take effect at midnight
  2. Thursday: created a Github repository to store the source for the website since I’m open-source like that
  3. Thursday: created an account on Linode, purchasing a “linode” for that
  4. Thursday: designed/created the initial local/development website layout/framework, collected images and content
  5. Friday: created (provisioned) the basic linode (virtual machine) for the website on production, provisioned a virtual drive, deployed Ubuntu 16.04LTS onto that, booted and remoted into that, ran updates, installed the framework, added the website, setup security and the firewall
  6. Friday: adjusted the DNS at GoDaddy to point to the new server, added more content
  7. Saturday: launched the website on Linode with the initial version
  8. Saturday: tweaked the settings to make the Node.js—based website start on bootup
  9. Saturday: added more content to the website


Not bad for an open-sourced 10-page (44 files) responsive website, if I do say so myself.

Please note that when I say “hosting company”, I really mean a “virtual server provider” so this is more like Amazon EC2 as a service offering. I didn’t just rent website space (like on Wix.com or WordPress.com), I rented an entire virtual server, if you will.

Comparison of virtual server versus website space

There are some advantages/disadvantages of renting a virtual server over just some website slot on a server somewhere:


  • In theory, you could run several websites from a virtual server
  • You can run services in the background (like Node.js) and manage them
  • You can run multiple threads on the same server, like helper routines which do something other than serving up pages
  • You’re not limited to the set of templates that are available from Wix.com, for example
  • Your website runs separately from other websites
  • You get an IP address which is only used for your website


  • You have to setup security yourself since you’re responsible for the entire server
  • The learning curve is steeper
  • You have to know I.T. things like setting up servers and installing software


Here’s a list of what I used for this website:

  • Node.js: Probably the most famous event-driven JavaScript runtime engine out there
  • Express: A minimalistic Node.js framework for separating code from content on a website
  • Bootstrap.css: A responsive stylesheet and component library for styling a website
  • PM2: A handy process manager for Node-based applications on a server.  After pulling new code, I might run the command pm2 restart AppName to restart the service


Kudos to Linode for providing a detailed Getting Started guide along with several tutorial videos on the subject.

And further, a note of thanks to PM2 which seems to satisfy the requirements of bringing up and managing a Node.js application as a service within a production environment and their ample documentation.


Is Linode well-suited for most website designers/developers? Probably not. On an I.T. complexity scale from 1 to 10 potatoes, I’d say they’re probably seven potatoes, perhaps. In this case, you’d have to be comfortable doing the following:

  • Using a web-based console to allocate and bring up/down a virtual server
  • Using ssh to remote into your virtual server
  • Navigating within a command line interface on a Linux computer or similar
  • Using ssh-keygen to generate a keypair
  • Using apt-get to update things
  • Editing files using nano
  • Managing services, reading log files
  • Remotely rebooting your virtual server
  • Setting up a firewall, testing and managing same
  • Applying code using git
  • Testing a website to verify that there are no 404 (file not found) type of errors, for example
  • And obviously, creating/designing a website in the first place and using a repository like Github for storing those files

That said, it was a perfect fit for me since I can do those things. In fact, the Linode-related part of this took no more than two hours since this is the first time I’ve used their interface. My next one should go much faster.


I will say that I’m impressed. Unlike Amazon AWS, Microsoft and Google, the people at Linode haven’t created an interface that’s overly complicated. It seems to work simply and to do the things you need to do and those are: 1) buy a virtual server, 2) deploy something onto it, 3) turn it on and 4) remote into it. I don’t think the “big three” have figured this out yet; their interfaces and the assumed workflow requires too much research, in my humble opinion.

Additionally, the PM2 software does a great job of working with the git-based code distribution model, allowing you to restart the Node.js app when it’s required and to start up automatically each reboot. There’s an easy-to-remember command interface like pm2 show AppName which tells you what you usually want to know.

At a cost of $5/month, it compares favorably to most of the well-known hosting providers out there. The basic linode will likely satisfy the requirements of the average Node.js application up to a reasonable level of simultaneous users, I’d suggest.



Imagine being able to have a conversation with your 3D printer much in the same way that the Tony Stark character of Iron Man did with his butler-esque virtual companion J.A.R.V.I.S., as voiced by the very talented Paul Bettany.  How cool would that be?


So I thought I’d work on an upgrade to my Robo C2 printer to add this capability.

Amazon Echo (Alexa)

Fortunately, Amazon has a product called Echo with an underlying personality & service named Alexa. Since they’ve made the source code and service available to developers, I’ll be using this to get started. For the commercial product, you’d say “Alexa…, what’s the local weather?”, perhaps and she might “read” a brief report for you. And by “read”, I mean:  “a text version of the weather report queried response would be rendered into sound using a female’s voice and played on a speaker”. (We love to anthropomorphize these things now that computers are getting so smart.)

Raspberry Pi

The Robo C2 printer has a Raspberry Pi 3 inside and I’ll be incorporating this into the project; I’m fairly familiar with how this computer works.

Since the price of the official Amazon Echo is about $100, this strikes me as being too expensive since all I really need is a single board computer, a microphone, a storage card and a battery. The Raspberry Pi Zero W fits that description and weighs in at a mere $10.  Technically, I’ll also need a speaker but since I’ve just upgraded the Robo C2 with sound events then I intend to push my generic Echo’s sounds over to the printer to play them there. This will help in the illusion that I’m talking to someone/something “over there”.

Wake Word

The Echo technology out-of-the-box recognizes the spoken word “Alexa” so that it might then attempt to turn your subsequent spoken commands into something recognizable, a “skill”. I’ll be updating it to recognize the spoken word “Jarvis” instead.

Custom Skills

Beyond the included skills, the service allows new user-defined skills to be created and then they’re part of Alexa’s talents, if you will. I shall be creating custom skills so that I might then do a number of tasks with the printer, hopefully to include sending a new job to print. It would also be good to know the status of an existing job without necessarily reading any of the available displays/consoles for this information.

From what I understand, these new skills are a collection of intents and utterances with optional slots as variables.


The underlying printing software behind-the-scenes on this printer is called OctoPrint. It’s suggested that it’s already compatible with Alexa so we’ll see if that’s accurate.


It should be rather small and handheld. The board itself is about the length of three quarters. I have two different microphones for this—I’ll try to use the smaller of the two. Initially, I’ll use a barrel type of USB charger but I’ll then knock that down to a smaller style when that’s working. I’ll likely solder the accessories if they seem to be happy. And then finally when I’ve settled on the accessories and such, I’ll design and print an enclosure for it. I may or may not include a wake-up button.


Custom Voice

I would like to replace Alexa’s voice personality with sound events from the J.A.R.V.I.S. movie character. I’ll see what it will take to make this happen. By keeping his responses to a few generic ones, I might just replace the outbound render-to-text routines so that they just pull from the stock responses as recorded and stored.


  • The sound event upgrade is now on the printer (imagine a Robo C2 printer making R2D2-like sounds to let you know when something has occurred)
  • I have all the parts I need for Jarvis
  • I’ve created a developer’s account on Amazon and have created my Alexa service for Jarvis
  • I have the Raspberry Pi Zero W computer’s operating system installed
  • The AlexaPi source code is installed and the service is running
  • The microphone appears to be working as expected
  • I need to read through the various tweaks required since I’m running on a Raspi Zero instead of a different version
  • Re-purpose the onboard LED on the Pi to work for the voice recognition notification
  • I need to install the new wake word for “Jarvis” instead of “Alexa”
  • I need to create one or more skills for things I need the printer to do like report status, turn off/on the webcam or to start/stop a job
  • Record and store patterned responses from the Iron Man series of movies to be played on the Raspi 3


parts is parts

Still designing/printing parts here in plastic from Autodesk Fusion 360, Cura and the Robo C2 printer. It’s amazing how long it can take sometimes to print.  This particular part printed in just over eighteen hours but an earlier (high-quality) version suggested that it would have taken slightly over four days.

I’ve been having problems with a particular spool of filament from Shaxon. Given that it’s infused with carbon fiber, it has a tendency to want to stick to itself on the spool. So I’ve lost about three print jobs so far from a variety of nonsense related to the filament snagging itself as seen here.


This then results in the loss of filament to the extruder and the print job continues, going through the motions of printing but without plastic. To fix this, I’ve repurposed the base of my rock polisher to hold the spool and locking it in place with a coat hanger for the moment. When the filament tries to snag itself, the entire rig seems to work out with respect to deploying without accidents.


If you’d like to see what it looks like to 3D print a part like this, here’s a link to the video I created (using that new camera from an earlier post).

Time-lapse photography of printed part


time-lapse photograpy for the robo c2

I’ve upgraded the Robo C2 printer with a nifty Raspberry Pi NoIR camera so that it can take photos, stream video and do time-lapse photography of print jobs. It seems to work great so far and I look forward to putting it through its paces.

And to make this easier for others, I’ve created a documentation repository with step-by-step instructions for anyone else who wants to modify their original printer to do this, too.

Okay, so technically the printer had a glitch 1/3 of the way into printing this (huge) coin example, so I aborted as it started to go funky at some point… which you can’t tell here, tbh.

When printed part becomes modern art

wizarding money

Apologies for the lull in blogging but I’ve been fussing with Autodesk Fusion 360 lately. The current design in 3D printing would be an authentic-looking Knut from the Harry Potter film series.


So for the first coin, I thought I’d try the copper/bronze-looking one since I have some copper-infused PLA filament, some copper-infused artist liquid-stuff and plenty of pennies for electolysis at the end.

I managed to do the front side with a convincing Tratello font for the text and a complete rendering of the details. I will attempt to do a photos->mesh conversion for a better face, however.


A raft on the part’s bottom is often necessary so that the part will adhere nicely to the workspace. Unfortunately, that tends to mar up one side of a coin so that approach doesn’t work here. I’ll then want to slice the coin into front/reverse and print both halves.


The standard weight of a plastic coin wouldn’t feel right in your hand so the strategy would be to put something inside of two halves to make it seem realistic.


After the actual print, everything you do to make it nice is called post-processing. In this case, this might include assembling the two halves of the coin with glue of some kind, sanding, tumbling in a magnetic rock tumbler device with copper-plated media for a few days, brushed-in application of a copper-infused liquid for touch-ups and finally, wiring and dropping each into an electrolysis chamber so that ionic copper may bind to the outer surface.


So far, I’ve got one half of the Knut designed and made two test prints. The inside space perfectly matches a penny (which adds weight to the coin and helps to speed up the print time). The filament produces a metallic matte finish and doesn’t appear to have the tell-tale lines you normally might see in a printed part.

The bad news is that my 0.4mm extruder nozzle is too big for this job. I need a tiny opening to print at a higher resolution. So I’ll be ordering some smaller nozzles like this 0.15mm version.


I have a spare power supply from a computer as well as a recycled hard disk. I’ll remove the top from the disk and then glue some very strong magnets around the top perimeter in alternating orientations every 60°. I’ll need to use my existing rubber drum from a rock tumbler kit for the media and parts.

As for the media, this will be a combination of penny-magnet-penny glued sandwiches plus a collection of copper-clad screws (over steel). This then makes everything inside want to give up copper in the millions of collisions with the copper-infused plastic parts, as influenced by the external rotating magnetic field. After a couple of days, the coins should have a healthy amount of superficial copper added plus a polishing of the printed detail.

don’t make me clamp you… (part 2)

You wouldn’t believe the difficulty I just had getting Autodesk Fusion 360 to do what I’d thought would be trivial: I wanted to cut down an existing part from Thingiverse to meet my needs.

Thingiverse ≠ OpenSource

The first thing I learned yesterday from this is that—even though Thingiverse seems like a wonderfully collaborative place—it isn’t actually open-source. If this were open-source, then in addition to the mesh (STL) files that are shared, each author would also include their project file as well (DWG, for example).

Don’t get me wrong, Thingiverse allows people to share their work. And yet, it isn’t the same as github which allows someone to take 100% of what you worked on, tweak it and then share that as well. It’s this iterative modification that makes open-source so powerful. And the reason behind that is that each new person doesn’t have to start from scratch.

CAD Project File

A typical computer-aided design file will include a variety of information. Most, though, are built around the concept of an initial sketch in two dimensions with a variety of measured constraints, for example. One then brings that 2D sketch into the third dimension and suddenly you have a part.

If you’d like to then edit the sketch or change the height of the sketch in that third dimension, you’d need to have that project file. (Thingiverse does not share project files.)

Mesh File

At the end of a design session, it would be necessary then to export that part into a 3D model which is usually a collection of points and triangular faces. The sum of these describes a solid in 3D space. (These STL files are shared on Thingiverse.)

Toolpaths File

Once you’ve exported your own design to an STL file (or you’ve downloaded one from someplace like Thingiverse), the file is taken into software like Cura if you’re trying to print to a 3D printer. This is known as “slicing” since it’s Cura’s job to know your printer well enough that it may slice your part from the bottom, up. Each layer then is converted into a number of instructions called G-code which tells the printer exactly what to do at every step of the way. (Thingiverse does not share these files either.)

Autodesk Wants You to Design in Autodesk

It was clear from my initial interaction with Autodesk’s support that they don’t want you to work using other software. They want you to start over and redesign your part in their software. Given that they charge $40/month to use the software, it’s easy to see why.

They actually do support the conversion of a mesh file into your project file in such a way that you can cut it, for example. They just hide the feature as an Easter Egg; only after turning off project journaling (Time Line) can you see the Mesh-to-BRep option. Granted, the program became painfully slow using this feature since it was grappling with about 50,000 triangular faces. Eventually, though, it processed the mesh file and I was able to apply the cutting action to remove some of the clamp from Thingiverse.

Progress So Far

Knowing that I could further modify the C part of the clamp should I need to, I then set the first of two prints into motion.

With the standard white PLA filament in the printer, I was able to print this in just over twelve hours last night. It’s a collection of eight screws plus their respective protector caps for the ends of those ball points. And tonight, I’ll print the C-shaped parts in black carbon fiber PLA for its added strength. (I’ll need to break them away from the adhesion raft, of course.)


In case you’re wondering, I had to laboriously place each of the sixteen individual parts into Cura’s workplace, carefully including enough space between them. The tighter you bunch them, the less movement the printer will have to do and the faster it will print. Get them too close and the extruder might bump into one of the other parts or perhaps merge two parts together.

As you can see from the slight bit of raft curl on the right side in the second photo, these clamps in theory will do a nice job of holding the raft down into the bed for the first inch or so of the part’s printing. In some cases, they should save what would otherwise be a failed printout.

don’t make me clamp you…

Trying to push the envelope in print volume on the Robo C2 printer, I’m finding that the part wants to curl on the bed (since the latter isn’t heated). Hmm…


This is a common occurrence, I understand.  It’s due to the uneven temperatures of plastic on the bed versus the new (hot) layers of added plastic. To get a part this big, I actually had to lie to the software and to suggest that the printer has a bigger range than this. This sort of tweaking is commonplace.

Hairspraying the bed is a known gimmick for 3D printing, but as you can see, the painter’s tape is well-stuck to the part.  Instead, I’m thinking of 1) printing the raft at the bottom, 2) pausing the print at this point, 3) removing the bed, 4) applying clamps around the edges and finally, 5) resuming the print job.

Tool-Making 101

From my experience in a plastic manufacturing plant, I learned that if something doesn’t work:  modify it, build a helper tool or change the process somehow so that it does work. Here, I’m opting to build a set of clamps to assist in the 3D print process and to insert a pause into those instructions (“GCODE”) at the proper moment.

Half the battle, then, is designing and building a number of clamps.  To be useful, they should allow their placement at a variety of distances from the edges of the bed. They should hold throughout the job even if things are vibrating and moving around. They should never restrict bed movement. Since the print job goes for perhaps ten hours, they must not fail in any way if I’m not there to watch their performance.

The other half of the battle is to create something which modifies the GCODE instructions to place a pause at the right moment (as soon as the raft has been laid down). My guess is that this will look like an OctoPrint plugin. There probably already are a number of plugins which pause at a particular z, meaning that they will pause the print job when it comes to a particular vertical layer. I was thinking that I might invent a different approach somehow in this space but I’ll see what I can come up with. I like the concept of pause after raft, though, and would imagine that this would be useful enough to others.

This should save a lot of print jobs from curl, I hope. And that should translate into a lot of money saved in filament, as well as time.


3d cover for the pi noir camera

Using the (included) industrial-grade Autodesk Fusion 360 software, I was able to design a part for my Robo C2 printer. It’s a cover and mount for the Raspberry Pi NoIR v2 camera (8MP resolution @ $27). I picked up several cheap suction cups (@ $0.99) from Ace Hardware yesterday and used a digital caliper to carefully measure the distances all around. I’ll sand it a little to make it smooth; the photos below is what it looks like after removing the raft and supports (throw-away extras to make everything print correctly). The jaggies inside the suction cup slot I’ll leave since they’ll grip tightly. I’ll likely also keep some of the jaggies in the fitting between lid and base for the same reason.

I’ll still need to receive the longer cable from Adafruit for this to work so I haven’t snapped down the parts firmly yet. In the meantime, I might create a ribbon clip with a second suction cup (editing the money clip from an earlier post).

If you’d like the STL files for the part now, let me know and I can shoot you the URL for those but I’ll eventually write up a step-by-step tutorial on the full upgrade to adding the video feed capability.